Walking Cuba de la Galga

To quote from information provided by Cubo de La Galga information point:

'This trail goes through one of the most fragile and valuable nature sites on La Palma.  It is a route that enables you to admire one of the best examples of laurel forest in the Canary Islands.'

It's a very long time since we walked the Cubo de La Galga, in fact, when the guide at the information cabin at the start of the walk asked if we had walked it before, we realised it was so long ago that he should consider us to be newbies.  Anyway, the information hut certainly wasn't there in those days and it's not usually a good idea to turn your nose up at free suggestions and advice when it comes to walking routes.

So, in addition to an interesting display in the cabin of what types of flora and fauna we could expect to see, the warden brought up a map on the computer and showed us the route.
Our choice then was whether to walk directly from the information hut that sits by the LP1 main road, drive in on the asphalt lane one kilometer or even drive a second kilometre on a rough track after the asphalt as we had the Land Rover. We opted for setting off on foot right from the start - after all, we had come to walk. Heroes, if only for a day (and it is only an 8km walk, although admittedly with a good bit of ascending and descending).

As it turned out, the asphalt lane was a very pretty start to the walk, although already starting to slope up fairly quickly. Being a hot day, we were grateful of the intermittent shade.
Walking further into El Cubo and following the now dry river bed, great cascades of creepers flowed down the sheer-sided canyon walls. Along the way, we noticed a cave or two up in the craggy wall - could it be this one where Jonathan Ross spent the night with Bear Grylls .. or that one just by a handy path .. we shall never know.

Whilst still on the asphalt track, we passed under the latest aquaduct, built in the 1960's when 2350m of gallery was dug to increase the water flow needed for increased levels of agriculture. This was done on an 'as needs' basis rather than as a commercial enterprise and the aquifer (underground layer of water-bearing permeable rock) was not damaged. In the 19th century, there were seven springs and even today, El Cubo provides La Galga with drinking water. Info courtesy of  information sheet at the cabin!

Where the rough track ended, I had thought the serious ascent would probably start, the warden having told us that there was as an ascent of 400m. However, the good news was that the ascent was quite gradual and with well-made steps along the way, we seemed to gain height without the usual associated pain. Amazing how that can happen when you keep walking in an upward direction!
Along the way we had the treat of mahogany trees (once called Canary Island ebony), Ironbark tree and the ebony. Plus of course, giant ferns.

As the path zigged and zagged us through the leafy forest, we came to a second aquaduct, this one much more attractive than the first being made of old stone. Passing through the archway was very much like walking into the secret garden. This was, to my mind, one of the loveliest and most tranquil parts of the whole walk and a great place to pause and take in the calm.

Just after this viaduct, we came to a T-junction in the path - either right for the Somada Alta viewpoint or left for La Galga. We chose the Somada Alta which was signposted as 1.9km away - and probably upward since it is a viewpoint at 800m above sea level.
However, the going wasn't tough and the path was well-made and with some impressive views into the gorge below.

The walk up to the view point took us 50 minutes, not walking too fast and pausing for quite a few photos. After an easier start with some steps and short, attractive slopes, the longish stretch (1km) of uphill forest trail took a bit of energy! However, once at the top the view was excellent over Puntallana, San Bartolo and even Tenerife and La Gomera in the distance.

I would say however, that it may not be the best place for a picnic on a hot day as there is no shade, unless you are willing to sit on the ground under a little wooden tunnel! Oh, and no seats anywhere either apart from some pretty hot paving slabs on the top of walls.
The walk down from the viewpoint took us along a little narrow path which soon came out into open farmland and rows of potatoes growing. Fifteen minutes later, we had to choose whether to head on down to La Galga or rejoin the Cubo. Without thinking about it too much, we followed the signpost to the Cubo, which would complete a circle and bring us back onto the rough track 2km from the visitor's centre where we had originally started. One thing we hadn't banked on was it being uphill again!

And another thing that we also hadn't completely realised is that anybody taking their car in for the first part of walk, might be disappointed to find that if they chose the route to La Galga rather than the Cubo de La Galga, they would have a 1km walk at the end of it to get their car!
All in all, a great walk and even better to finish off with a swim at the sea pools of La Fajana de Barlovento (28km marker from the main road). Having listened to so many birds as we walked through the woods, now we were swimming with multi-coloured fish. Oh well, all in a day's work I suppose. 
Degree of difficulty: Not a complete walk in the park. Bit of hiking involved.
Approx time: 4 hours
For more information on walking and trekking on La Palma, check out Walking on La Palma
Short You Tube video with bird song: http://youtu.be/NAe62Gnco2k

Luggage-transported walking holidays on La Palma

El Camino Real, La Ruta de la Costa, the GR130 or whichever name you like to give it, is the new way to go.  Yes, I can really see that his amazing and unforgettable, 8-day walk around La Palma will one day be the Mecca for any walker wanting a challenge and to immerse themselves in some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable.
Great then that all the work that was done in 2010 to clear the paths, put up new signs and generally give the whole route a massive make-over, has not been in vain.

Apart from the diehards who carry their huge rucksacks on their backs, a new trend is the luggage-transported holiday.  For anybody who doesn't know what this is, the idea is that your luggage is transported for you between accommodations and 'all' you have to do is the walking. When you arrive at your accommodation, your luggage is waiting for you.  The great thing is that you can pack all your creature comforts to have at hand after a long day's walk and you don't have to go the minimal route.
It has been said to me on a number of occasions however, that this is not really possible in La Palma due to the lack of suitable accommodation along the route.
Well, it might not always be easy to find but I am pleased to say that, in part also to a fabulous taxi company, our luggage-transported holidays are stepping out in style!

Exploring the Peaks of the GR131

This week, we were lucky enough to take a trip up to Roque de Muchachos and the observatories.  Although it is only 50 minutes away from the house by car, we still continue to be amazed by it!
The past week or so, we have had absolutely fabulous weather and the view up at the top of the island did not disappoint. Even Rocky the Raven was in fine form, doing his best to gain attention - and bread.

After a walk to the mirador which gives an impressive view down into the Caldera, walking back up to the Roque de Muchachos was also brilliant!

Path up the Roque de Muchachos

However, we were on a bit of a mission on this occasion, walking and exploring along the ridge and so set off in the Land Rover first of all passing the Mirador de los Andenes and then on past Pico de la Cruz and then towards Pico de la Nieve. Here we left the road and followed the forest track up towards the GR131.  After bumping along the track for a good ten minutes (not that good), we arrived at a flat area which serves as a car park.  Here we were at LP3 walking route which goes up to the GR131 and all the way down to Santa Cruz.

We decided to save the walk to the GR131 for another time and it's one to look forward to, up through the pine forests to emerge right at the Pico de la Nieve, Peak of the Snow.  Exciting or what!
Returning back to the road and towards the Pico de la Cruz we were struck by just how many walking trails there are that cascade down from the GR131. It is quite incredible and I don't think you could ever be stuck for an amazing walk on La Palma!

Near the Pico de la Cruz, we did stretch our legs a little more and walked up to the GR131.  It's a very short walk at just 0.5km and well worth doing.  In fact, there are a couple of viewing points and this is also where the LP7.8 goes down towards Los Tilos where we made our last walk and on to La Laguna and Barlovento.

On reaching the GR131, we had a fabulous view not just down into the Caldera but looking straight into the heart of the ravine as it goes towards Tazacorte and the sea. This is where rain water collects and begins its journey to the sea and is aptly named 'Fuente del Diablo' the Spring of the Devil.
Honestly - it's scary stuff!

Back at the Mirador de los Andenes where the GR131 touches the main road for just five metres, we were just in time to see walkers coming through Roberto's Wall. What a legend and what a wall - you can read about the legend here.

 

Yes, just another amazing day on La Palma.

The Ancient Laurisilva forest of Los Tilos, La Palma

It seems like a very long time since we 'hit the trail' and so, by way of mixing a walk with a little education, we decided upon a visit to the Los Tilos Visitor Centre and a walk through the ancient Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Although it's not so long since we were at the Centre, a quick (or long) visit is a very good reminder as to what this walk is all about because it is not just your average a to b walk with some good views along the way. No, this is the sort of walk that takes you back in history - to something like the Tertiary age millions of years ago. After that, most laurisilva forests disappeared except in Madiera, the Azores and the Canary Islands.  Even then, the laurisilva forest of Los Tilos in La Palma is rather special as it is the best example in the Canary Islands.
So who were we to begrudge a few steps (and there are rather a lot) up through the forest as we headed to the Mirador de las Barandas?  Quite.  And of course there are some flat bits. 

Just as we were beginning to think that the steps went on forever, it was with some surprise that we suddenly reached our first way-point of the Mirador de la Banaderos some 40 minutes from the start.  Here, a selection of rustic picnic tables invited us for a sit down in the shade or a drink at the nearby water fountain.  But no, a look at the view and then onward.

After the ascent to the mirador, the route was much kinder in the form of a pretty forest track, lined with the gigantic ferns that Los Tilos is so famous for. 

In fact, each fern was easily as tall and wide as us so it really was a walk in the land of the giants.  

One thing I love about the walks on La Palma is not just the challenge, the views and the interest value - but also seeing the 'signs through the ages.'  This route, along with many walks on La Palma, has recently been re-signposted and is now designated as the PR-LP 9.1 and it is almost always very easy to follow. Along with the posts, there are still one or two of the rustic old signs and if you peer into the undergrowth at the occasional junction, then you will most likely spot the walking blaze to confirm that you are literally on track or the painted 'X' sign to tell you that this is not the way to go. The new signs for the walks don't look at all out of place and are very clear.

Great though to just wander along the path and enjoy the views, especially on a bright and sunny day.  But also good to see that, if the weather is less kind, there are some man-made caves which did look inviting. 

And then we got to the fun bit - probably what you least expect in a forest - a water gallery, pumping station and a railway train to play with.  OK, the train part isn't there any more apart from the old dolly but the tracks certainly are, along with the wheels which still run up and down. Oh yes ... we did!

After that bit of excitement, it was a short ascent along the forest trail again before reaching open ground and the view of La Laguna - the largest reservoir in the Canaries.  Here it seemed that all manner of different things were growing together, including cactus, apple trees and some wonderful fungi that reminded me of chocolate profiteroles piled up. 

After this, we were into open farmland with the forest behind us and La Laguna growing steadily closer.  Good to know that once at La Laguna we could pause for an ice-cream at the restaurant Las Goteras or if needs get a taxi into Barlovento.  But no, best keep on walking towards the town where we would catch the bus back to our start point.  

* This walk forms part of our luggage-transported, self-guided walking holiday on La Palma.